Flyout Menu
I never thought I would write this about a restaurant visit, but here we go—the highlight of the evening was… the toilet. But let me start from the beginning.
Smörtaxen (which translates to “Butter Dachshund,” referring to the classic butter knife holder) is a quirky restaurant located right next to the citadel in Landskrona, separated only by the moat.
Smörtaxen rebuilt the garage from 1931, transforming it into a unique dining space.
The tables at Smörtaxen are booked just as quickly as when a three-Michelin-starred restaurant releases reservations. In seconds, they are fully booked for months. Luckily, we managed to reserve a table for two.
The restaurant changes its theme “All-In” with the seasons, and this time, it was all about giving a twist to Japan—both in the décor and the dishes.
The menu is fixed: 4 snacks, a bread serving, 3 mains, and 2 desserts. A classic setup for a fine dining menu, but this is far from traditional fine dining.
In the end, the bill arrived tucked into the Sumo wrestler’s neck.
Our reservation was for the first seating at 18.00, and it turned out to be a wise choice, as we had the chance to choose between two tables. One was a high-top table with bar stools that did not seem particularly comfortable, so we were glad to opt for the regular table in the corner.
Ox Cheek – Mixed Mushrooms – Coriander – Ponzu – Chanterelles
The evening began with drinks served from the tiny kitchen, and we were informed that the dinner would take about four hours. In retrospect, our four and a half hours was too long. Sure, the food was good—fun and a little crazy even—but the problem lay in the kitchen structure, not the service.
All guests arrived in time slots 18.00, 18.30 and 19.00, and the pacing of the meal depended on everyone finishing each course before moving on to the next. Since we arrived first, we got our food first, but then had to wait after every dish for the other tables to catch up.
That explains the card games on the table, but seriously—games for ages six and up? There were a few other options, but none really kept us entertained. Believe me, we tried. We were hoping for something more like Punk Royal—crazier, more chaotic.
Grilled Turbot- Corn – Chanterelles – Brussels Sprout
The most fun was, of all places, the toilet. Complete with Japanese karaoke on one screen, a dressed-up mannequin, and a lot of crazy and cute details, it was quirky in the best way.
Now, the big question, the elephant in the room: why did they go full-on with the Hibachi grill inside? The entire dining room filled with smoke, making our eyes sting and leaving us feeling a bit overwhelmed.
By the time we left, our hair needed washing, and our clothes went straight into the laundry. Even our car smelled of smoke the next day! I mean, come on—if you are going to go big with the grill, take it outside. There was plenty of space for it.
Shot Boat – Yelly shots
After four and a half hours, we were full… and a little bored. By the end, they tried to speed things up with the final dish, the “backpacker finish”—a backpack containing four spirits to choose from and an accompanying dessert. Unfortunately, they could not tell us much about the spirits, other than one being from the Philippines and another from Japan. The other two? Neither they nor we had any clue. The Japanese whisky was even labeled in Japanese, making it impossible to figure out the alcohol strength.
Some of the wines followed a similar pattern—cool names and labels, but no clear information about their strength. The staff’s go-to line was, “this is my favourite wine.” I chose non-alcoholic beer for the evening, but my wife was brave enough to try a few of the wines. Let us just say she stuck to Pisco Sours and regular beer.
Landskrona Citadel, opposite view from Smörtaxen.
Now, I sound like a grumpy old man, but honestly, the atmosphere and staff were fantastic. It is completely casual, as far from stiff fine dining as you can get. The dinner just needs to be shorter, with more interaction from the staff, and for heaven’s sake, get rid of the grill!
Maybe rework some of the dishes too—the raw wagyu ribeye in the Japanese Bookmaker was not pleasant in the mouth. And ditch the siphon. There was a bit too much digging around in the plates, but the flavours were there—rich and complex.
For hipsters, this place is pure gold. And honestly, I do not think they care what we think—they are doing their own thing with a smile. And as long as they are fully booked two times over and had been since day one, why change a winning formula?
✽ The cover picture: Toilet at Smörtaxen.
First time
Dinner
4 1/2 hours
Cosy with normal space between the tables. 6 tables, one sofa for two, and four seats at the bar. If you are two people, we recommend the sofa.
Young, hip, and hipsters in their 30s.
Limited and displayed on a wall next to the kitchen, featuring low-intervention wines.
Solid 78 dB
Yes
Yes
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