Review: Restaurant Calma in Copenhagen

Atmosphere and First Impressions

Located in Nørrebro, right on Jægersborggade, this street is impressive. It holds three Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurants. The other two are Silberbauers Bistro and Paesàno. Not a bad line-up for one stretch of cobblestones. All so close together you could stumble between them blindfolded. Not that I am recommending it.

The restaurant has that informal charm, a vibrant atmosphere, and warm hospitality. Cosy, open kitchen, tables squeezed close, it hums with energy. The kitchen leans towards French-Italian inspired modern cooking.

Ravioli – Chanterelles

Dishes, Desserts, and a Splash of Wine

We started with a dish from the blackboard specials, ravioli with chanterelles. It was delicious and satisfying. In the last three days in Copenhagen, I think we have had better pasta here than on a trip to Italy.

Next came monkfish in a langoustine bisque with sun-dried tomatoes. The monkfish was cooked on the bone with a lovely crust on top, but the bisque turned out sharper than expected, the tomatoes pushing it off balance. We had hoped for something lighter and more balanced.

We finished by sharing an Amalfi lemon pie with vanilla ice cream. The pie sang with Italian lemon flavours, and the brûléed top only made it better. Almost deserving its own fan club. Absolutely stunning.

The wine list is excellent, leaning slightly towards low-intervention wines, but there is something for everyone. We chose Soldaat 2022 from Eben Sadie, South Africa’s cult winemaker of elegant, terroir-driven bottles. The wine can be a little tight, so we asked for a splash decanting — which it needed and opened up beautifully.

Exactly the kind of Bib Gourmand experience you hope for, delivered with charm and flavour.

Monkfish – Tomato – Langoustine Bisque

The bottom line

Will we return?

An easy yes.

Worth the money?​

Yes

Address

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