It was opening night for the Odette pop-up at the Japanske Tårnet inside Tivoli, one of the world’s oldest amusement parks. We just love looking at the old boats from our table, steering around in the small pond that felt like a big lake when we were children.
It had only a couples of weeks since the Odette Odyssey at Jordnær. To be frank, it was not all that exciting. That evening felt more like a PR event. To be completely honest, Odette’s dishes were faultless, but they did not excite us.
And we had second thoughts about the pop-up which we booked long before the Odyssey. We went, it was prepaid, and we had our safe word if one of us wanted to leave early, crème brûlée (do not worry, we have changed it after this text).
Porcini Sabayon – Maitake – Buckwheat
We could not have been more wrong this time. Ten minutes in, we had the biggest smiles on our faces. This was all Odette as we remember it from Singapore, it was magic from beginning to end.
The dishes were more balanced, more refined, and absolutely delicious.
My wife kept repeating during dinner that we must go to Singapore once Odette reopens after its renovation. It was simply that good. Everything just clicked, from the greeting, the service, the pace of the dishes, Odette’s head sommelier Lesley Liu made one of the best wine pairings we have had to date.
North Sea Crab – Horseradish – Nashi Pear – Kristal Caviar
It started off with three delicious snacks, followed by Porcini Sabayon, a mushroom soup airy yet rich, with maitake adding depth. The buckwheat bringing just enough texture to stop it from slipping into comfort food territory. A hall of fame dish for us.
Danish Wild Turbot ‘Retour d’Asie’ – Zucchini Flower – Jalapeño – Thai Basil
Then came the North Sea Crab with horseradish, nashi pear, and Kristal caviar. We had it before at Jordnær, but this time it was more elevated and refined.
The Yuzu ‘Poached’ Blue Lobster with miso caramel, braised chicory, and saké beurre blanc also returned. Last time the dish leaned too sweet, with the lobster’s natural sweetness amplified by the miso caramel. This time, the balance was spot on, the sweetness pulled back, letting the miso and saké beurre blanc bring depth and harmony.
Poularde – Chanterelles
“That little something to create dishes that excite the palate and fill the heart.”
The Danish Wild Turbot ‘Retour d’Asie’ was also a delight, full of chef’s touches, from the delicate turbot to the octopus and shrimps tucked inside the zucchini flower, a little surprise.
Next up was Odette’s signature Kampot Pepper Crusted Pigeon. The pepper is hand-harvested and grown the same way for generations in Cambodia.
Chef Julien offered to change it to poularde with chanterelles, knowing we had only recently had pigeon. A nice gesture which my wife said yes to. I wanted to try the pigeon again. Last time, it was too peppery and the balance of flavours was not there for me. This time, it was clearly better, still peppery, but in harmony. The leg was wow—can I please have five of them?
Late Harvest – Grapes – Sauternes – Aloe Vera
The most beautiful palate cleanser so far, the Late Harvest with grapes, sauternes, and aloe vera, created by Odette’s pastry chef Louisa Lim. My wife loved it, but she is biased because she loves anything that shines pink. Trust me, I once bought her a pink candy floss and I almost saw her happier than on our wedding day.
Lim followed with Grain de Café, mascarpone, pecan praline, and sobacha. The coffee flavour hit exactly the right note and lingered throughout the dessert. Not too heavy, not too light. A new dessert favourite.
She asked if we would like to try a new creation of hers. We politely said no. We were satisfied, the right amount of dishes. Today, as I am writing this, I still regret turning it down. Of course, it all closed with Douceurs, the small sweet bites at the very end.
The kind of ending that makes you want to book the next flight—Singapore is calling. Nothing haunts quite like the dessert you turned down.
Since 2021, Nimb Hotel has presented a series of world-leading restaurant pop-ups at the Japanske Tårnet in Tivoli Gardens. Just a short stroll from the hotel, the pagoda has become a stage for rotating Michelin-starred chefs to showcase their cooking, bringing top-tier gastronomy into one of Copenhagen’s most iconic settings.
Dry River – Martinborough 2010
Nieuw Vineyard – Eola-Amity Hills, 2023
Comte Abbatucci – Général de la Révolution, Corsica, 2022
Franz Hirtzberger – Ried Setzberg Smaragd, Wachau, 2023
Domaine de Trévallon – Les Baux de Provence, 2021
Reggiano DOC – Lambrusco Rosato Dolce, NV
Silvio Nardi – Vin Santo di Montalcino “Occhio di Pernice”, 2017
