Udtryk opened in March this year, and only five or six weeks later, it received a Michelin star. Simply stunningly fast. Of course, we needed to see why Chef Edward Lee deserved this praise.
We arrived by taxi and were immediately greeted by a woman in a black cape standing by the road. A small courtyard and a yellow house—it looked very cosy. The restaurant has that classic Michelin intimacy, with well-placed tables. It also carries an Asian touch, with soft lighting and taper details in the roof adding warmth.
It was a birthday dinner, and of course a small Danish flag was waiting on the table. Luckily there was no singing from the staff or a cake with a sparkler in it.
Monaka – Squid – Goma – Cumquat
After the meal, it was clear why Edward Lee was awarded a star. Every dish carried his identity. It was cohesive and personal. We have written many times about a red thread running through a menu, and here it was on a new level.
Before arriving, I expected fusion food—Nordic, Asian, and everything in between. It was anything but that. It was simply Chef Lee’s own expression.
It was good, but I did not like it.
Even if not every dish was for me, I admired the boldness. Take the Beluga Sterlet Caviar from Gastro Unika with lentils and Koji soy milk. It was far from my comfort zone. The caviar was delicious, and my wife loved the whole dish.
That is the essence of dining: appreciating even what you do not like. My wife’s little sister once said it best when she was a child: “It was good, but I did not like it.”
Beluga Sterlet Caviar – Lentils – Koji Soy Milk
Then came the pigeon. Recently, we had Chef Julien Royer’s signature pigeon dish twice—first at Jordnær, then at his pop-up at Tivoli. Sorry, Julien, but this was even better.
Perfectly cooked pigeon, crisp skin, and the sweetness of the Roscoff onion, the whole dish balanced to an absurd level. Pure love.
Zander – 10-Year-Old Shaoxing – Aged Tangerine from Xinhui
The whole menu sang Chef Lee’s style. The dumpling in what he called a “superior broth” was exactly that, superior.
On the ride home, we agreed this was two-star dining. The service had a few hiccups, perhaps the team is still finding its rhythm. Small misses, like mixing up the water, forgetting refills, and even forgetting to order the taxi. The toilets, while stocked with good amenities, also needed a little attention.
Still, we left happy. Would we go again? The final question. Sure, why not.
Chef Edward Lee
Yes, especially when the second star arrives.
Without a doubt.
Share your feedback in the comments below.
