Passion can be a captivating force, especially when it inspires a Michelin-starred restaurant from Brooklyn to cross the Atlantic and set up a pop-up in Copenhagen. aska, based in New York’s vibrant culinary landscape, brings its Nordic heritage and two Michelin stars to Tivoli’s Japanese Pagoda. This venue is known for hosting exceptional gastronomic experiences from international restaurants.
Given the relentless buzz surrounding aska in New York, our expectations were understandably high—after all, what is a Michelin-starred experience without a bit of hype?
Tail of lobster – Crème Royale -Trout roe – Essence of wild carrot flower
Our evening began with four snacks. The sea oak with blue mussel was so tasty that you might wish for a paper bag full of them to accompany your next Netflix session. These snacks set the tone for what was to come: six main courses, two desserts, and a selection of four sweets.
Before the food arrived, we were presented with the wine menu. It was understandably limited, featuring two tasting options: a champagne tasting and a more varied selection, including champagne, white wine, sake, and red wine—in a low-intervention style.
Surprisingly, there was no information available online about the wines beforehand. When we asked about the limited selection and style of wines, the sommelier explained that they wanted to “make it fun and change it up a bit,” likely influenced by Copenhagen’s status as a hub for natural wines—thanks (or blame) to Noma’s influence.
Scallop – White turnip – Black currant leaf
We chose the wine pairing. So, where to begin? The sommelier’s enthusiasm for low-intervention wines was commendable, yet the reality was more of a discordant symphony than a harmonious duet. The Chat Sauvage 2019 Pinot Noir from Rheingau, which initially showed some promise, quickly turned into an awkward guest at the party when paired with the quail dish.
The only dish that came close to matching the wine’s acidity was the berries dish, paired with the more traditional 2019 Grünhaus, Herrenberg Riesling Auslese from the Mosel region. However, the wine’s acidity still overpowered the dish, making the pairing less than ideal.
Turbot – Beluga caviar – Swedish dark beer – Flowering dill
It left us wondering if the issue was due to budget constraints, trend-chasing, or simply the sommelier’s personal taste. She did, after all, mention several times, “This is my favourite wine.” Unfortunately, this was probably the worst wine pairing at this level we have ever experienced.
The dishes themselves were well-composed and beautifully presented. We appreciated the layered flavours in each dish, but there was nothing we had not seen or tasted before. Additionally, many dishes were a bit too raw for our liking, such as the Norwegian scallops.
Langoustine – Sauce Caramelized Shell – Red Gossebery
The grilled tail of langoustine could have used a few more seconds on the grill. The turbot was slightly mushy, and not even Tsar Imperial Beluga caviar on top of the fish could cut through the sweetness of the sauce, which featured flowering dill and Carnegie porter beer. With a slight adjustment, this dish could easily have been served as a dessert due to its sweetness.
Chef Fredrik Berselius was away on another culinary adventure, leaving us to wonder if the true aska experience in New York is an entirely different ball game—hopefully with a wine list that does justice to the dishes.
✽ The cover picture features one of the sweet treats: Madeleine & Salted Blueberry.
Tivoli’s Japanese Pagoda, Copenhagen
2 stars
Dinner
Cosy
Very limited
Yes, but for another pop-up restaurant to come.
No
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