Flyout Menu
During our recent trip to New York City, we set out to explore some of the best French bistros in NYC for lunch. In a city as vibrant and sprawling as Manhattan, finding authentic French dining experiences can be a challenge. Here, we share our honest reviews of four top-rated French restaurants in NYC, each with its own character and charm. How did they stack up? Let us dive in.
Located on Beekman Street, just an 8-10 minute walk from the World Trade Memorial, Le Gratin is owned by renowned chef Daniel Boulud, a Frenchman with a culinary empire of about ten restaurants in NYC. Naturally, we had high hopes for the Croque Monsieur. But, unfortunately, it did not quite deliver.
The bread was soggy, the cheese lacked the golden crust a good Croque needs, and the sandwich was oddly almost cold. A glance around the room showed other tables looking equally uninspired – no one seemed too thrilled with their dishes. Adding to the disappointment, the tablecloths were neglected; rather than refreshing the linens, they simply swapped the top paper.
We would think twice before returning. And of course, the toilets are through an adjoining door to another restaurant with live jazz, located in the far corner of that restaurant, deep down in the basement.
The restaurant looked a little worn down, but if the food is great, who cares? The empty tables warned us we should have turned around at the door, but as we were with friends, we did not notice.
I ordered the chicken with pommes purée, which was slightly dry and served atop garlic and parsley bread (I think, I did not try it), that reminded me of a sponge – oversoaked, unappetising, and topped with a bunch of watercress. Another dish, the tagine with couscous, was also underwhelming; the flavour was bland, and the vegetables were barely cooked.
Service was no better. It took an hour for our food to arrive (lunch), and the person who took our order mumbled so much that none of us could understand him. The woman serving us was like a zombie, passing our table a couple of times without even glancing our way. Forget asking, “How was your meal?” or “Would you like to order anything else?” With only 3-4 other tables of guests, the atmosphere was uncomfortably quiet.
I had noticed a young man wandering around earlier, coffee cup in hand, seemingly doing nothing. After finishing, I eventually got up to find someone to pay. I found this same young man who looked like he might be in charge, so I asked if he was the table manager or captain.
His response: “We do not have a captain here” (Sure, it is not the Carlyle). He said he was “just in service,” but suddenly started flapping his arms, loudly declaring, “I am the captain, I am the captain!”
It was the oddest behaviour I have ever witnessed from restaurant staff, and as I walked away, all I could think was,
“Yes, you are – on a sinking ship.”
I give them a couple of months before they go under. Later, we heard the owners just opened two new locations: one on the Upper East Side, Le Veau d’Or, and one at Rockefeller Center, Le Rock.
Afterwards, still hungry, we grabbed a pizza slice from Lucia Pizza of Soho – pure magic, and one of the best crusts we have ever had. Skip Frenchette, buy a bottle of wine next door to Lucia, enjoy it in a brown paper bag (still not legal) and a slice. Promise it is going to be lunch to remember.
Finally, redemption. Just as we were about to abandon French bistros in NYC, Balthazar restored our faith. With a packed house, a lively buzz, and eye-catching seafood platters, we felt reassured. I ordered steak frites, while my wife had macaroni cheese with a beautiful, golden cheese crust. Both dishes were excellent, and the service stood out. The staff operated like a well-rehearsed team with table managers, runners, and bussers moving in sync – a pleasure to watch.
If you are dining solo, go for the bar, early or late. Pop over to the seafood bar and choose a couple of oysters – I would. And it is the classic little things that tell you this is French when they remove the salt and pepper pots after your mains. Just class and classic.
Located in the Meatpacking District and under the same ownership as Balthazar, Pastis offers quintessential French decor with tables, chairs, and a classic Parisian menu. It was packed, yet service was prompt and attentive.
But was it enjoyable? That is tough to answer because the noise level was overwhelming. Picture Friends’ Janice shouting, “Oh my Gawwd!” multiplied by 30. It was impossible to fully savour the food with noise levels reaching a solid 84 dB, with some higher peaks. My wife thought Tom Kitchin in Edinburgh was louder, but I beg to differ. (The WHO recommends no more than 70 dB for dining environments.)
They do have outdoor seating as well, but I doubt it is any quieter. When I asked our server if this was the usual volume, the answer was yes – every day! Poor sod.
Dining in NYC can be a mixed bag, especially with the bustling atmosphere and eclectic service. If you are after a classic, no-fuss French experience, Balthazar is our top recommendation for its lively atmosphere and dependable service. Pastis also has its charms, but be prepared for an exceptionally loud dining room that might overpower the experience.
As for Le Gratin, it fell short of the French culinary standards we hoped for, leaving us unimpressed. And finally, Frenchette was the biggest disappointment of all, with lacklustre food and inattentive service; a slice at Lucia Pizza was a far more satisfying alternative. For lunches, these spots offer a range of experiences, but if you are planning for dinner, we suggest trying Quality Bistro instead.
NYC dining is always an adventure—some hits, some misses—and these four bistros perfectly capture that variety.
✽ The cover picture features Le Gratin
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