When my wife suggested trying Peranakan cuisine at Candlenut, I had no idea what I was in for. Turns out, it is a Michelin-starred journey with a side of cyanide—literally.
Candlenut is located at the Como Dempsey, surrounded by other restaurants and bars. It is cosy, intimate, and undeniably romantic, making it an ideal spot for a date night. Yes, it is part of the COMO group, the same people responsible for that memorable Italian escape at COMO Castello Del Nero. Let’s just say we have moved on from their hotels.
Candlenut feels like an effortlessly curated Instagram post and just dim enough to make everyone look ten years younger. But did it live up to Michelin standards? Not quite. The service had all the enthusiasm of a cat being told to get off the sofa. Let’s just say the staff were more “dreamy-eyed contemplation” than “snappy efficiency.”
Snake River Farm Kurobuta Pork Neck Satay
Peranakan cuisine, also known as Nyonya cuisine, is a unique and flavorful culinary tradition that blends Chinese, Malay, and Indonesian influences, creating dishes that are bold, aromatic, and deeply rooted in heritage.
The Peranakans themselves are descendants of Chinese immigrants who settled in Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, and southern Thailand centuries ago. They developed their own distinct culture, language, and cuisine, which has become a hallmark of their identity.
So now you know. Maybe you were already familiar, like my wife, or perhaps ignorant like me. Either way, the real question is: how was the food?
Wing Bean Salad
I checked their website beforehand, and yes, they have pictures of the food. What do we think of this?
Thankfully, my wife, ever the culinary connoisseur, approached the menu like a general plotting her next victory. “Let’s share,” she declared, ensuring we covered as much of the menu as without rolling out of the restaurant.
We started with Snake River Farm Kurobuta Pork Neck Satay, four skewers glazed with kicap manis that disappeared far too quickly.
Next came the Wing Bean Salad, topped with tiny anchovies, deep-fried to a crisp. They added crunch, salt, and a subtle reminder that fried food solves most of life’s problems.
Then there was Chef’s Mum’s Chicken Curry, a dish that practically hugs you from the inside. Tender local chicken, potatoes, and kaffir lime leaves—comfort food that whispers, “You’ll miss me when I’m gone.”
And then came the pièce de résistance: Aunt Caroline’s Babi Buah Keluak, with the infamous black nut. The black nut, a culinary daredevil’s dream, is part ingredient, part death threat. One wrong move in its preparation, and you are basically signing up for a round of cyanide roulette.
Suddenly, the romantic evening took on the vibe of a suspense thriller.
Aunt Caroline’s Babi Buah Keluak
What I will remember is the candlenut tree, a tree up to 30 metres tall, with nuts that light up like candles when thrown into a fire. This visit was more than just a meal, it was an education. I now know what Peranakan cuisine is, what a black nut is, and a bit about the history of the Peranakan community.
My wife broadened my perspective with this experience, and at least I got to choose the wine, Château Musar 2017. Slightly chilled, it worked in perfect harmony with the dishes, proving that even in unfamiliar culinary territory, a good wine can be a reliable ally.
Chef’s Mum’s Chicken Curry
While we would not say Candlenut fully lives up to Michelin standards, it is still worth visiting. The food is tasty, the ambiance is cosy and romantic, and it offers a rare glimpse into the world of Peranakan cuisine.
Just do not expect flawless service, and perhaps skip the black nut unless you are feeling particularly brave—or reckless.
End of december 2024
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