Founded in 1787, Operakällaren is a pillar of Sweden’s dining scene, located in the Royal Swedish Opera House. Its storied history has seen celebrities, royalty, and notable figures dine within its walls. The legendary chef Tore Wretman, who shaped its mid-20th century legacy, introduced the elegant tableside cart service—a tradition that continues today with the original carts, adding historical charm to the dining experience.
I don’t want to hear the specials. If they’re so special, put ’em on the menu.
Stepping into Operakällaren feels akin to entering Stockholm Castle, situated just across from the restaurant. You enter through a modest side entrance to hang your coat, then the grand dining room reveals itself in all its splendor. But keep walking past carts of liquor to the airy inside terrace, a more modern, casual setting perfect for aperitifs and snacks. I wished I could have taken pictures, but with celebrity guests around, it felt intrusive to play paparazzi.
Monkfish From Iceland – Thai Basil – Roasted Garlic – Artichokes
The snacks service was excellent and good bottles of Champagne to choose from. Their own Champagne Cuvée Operakällaren is sublime and stood actually out very well against the Dom Perignon. Often we do not choose the same, so we can taste and talk about the difference, old sommelier habit. Taste, taste and taste.
Natural Foie Gras Terrine “Signature” – Pistachio Croquant – Punch Caramel – Pineapple Flambé
Star of the night, despite the ornament 😉
How we managed to never dine here before is beyond me. But here we were, finally, watching the classic cart service—tableside flambéing, cutting, the works. In today’s world, it was pure bliss to revert to the old days when service was at its peak. I asked one of the waiters about this, and she found it far more enjoyable than being a “plate taxi.”
The food is good, deserving of one star, though not quite two. But that’s not a knock. The snack service was exceptional, some dishes were excellent, and the bread service was among the best.
Tableside service was fantastic. One slight downside was the lengthy service time. By the end, we were too tired and had to call it a day before the last praline arrived. Staying at the Grand Hôtel? It’s a perfect short walk back to the hotel.
First time
May 2024
One-star
Dinner
Airy
Impressing 85 pages
Solid 62 dB
Yes
Yes