The Hinds Head – Heston Blumenthal (Bray)
The Coach – Tom Kerridge (Marlow)
The Hand & Flowers – Tom Kerridge (Marlow)
We first thought of making a comparison between Heston’s Hinds Head in Bray and Tom Kerridge’s The Coach in Marlow. A natural match—both one Michelin star pubs.
But after visiting them, we felt we had to include Kerridge’s The Hand & Flowers. Yes, it has two stars, which might seem unfair to compare—but the other two outshone it.
It is not always the case that more stars mean better dishes. But it should mean a bigger experience in total. Just not here.
This was a last-minute trip to England, and with high season in full swing, it became a bit of a puzzle to book both hotels and restaurants for our twelve-day holiday.
We started with a night at The Waterside Inn in Bray. After arriving, we took a short walk to the Hinds Head for lunch, then returned to the hotel to check in before dinner at the Waterside Inn.
The next day we checked in at the Chequers Hotel in Marlow. The room was not ready, but we had a reservation at The Coach, which is now possible to do on the day, so we went for lunch.
Returning and discovering the filthy room at Chequers, we moved to the Crowne Plaza, and rounded off the evening with dinner at The Hand & Flowers.
Phew! Four Michelin restaurants in two days is a record for us. Luckily, none of them insisted on a traditional ten-course tasting menu. Even the Waterside Inn offered à la carte,
Otherwise, we would have rolled out of Marlow faster than our rental car.
The Hinds Head
The Coach
It is impossible not to compare the triple cooked chips between Hinds Head and The Coach.
A couple of years ago, we had them at The Coach and we loved them. They looked and tasted the same this time. But—and there is a but—the Hinds Head just outshone them and set a new benchmark for us.
Incredibly crispy on the outside and fluffy inside.
When you do not think it can get better, it does.
Chicken Kiev
I choosed their classic dish, Chicken Kiev with three-cheese tart and Scottish girolles. The dish was exactly what it should be. So was the service.
It looked simple on the plate, but the flavours came together nicely.
We think The Coach is a very good pub for lunch. At the time, there was a good harmony in the restaurant—among both guests and staff.
We somehow ended up having the fillet three times in the first two days. Sure, I am a meat lover. But to be frank, the fillet is probably the most boring cut. The luxury version of playing it safe.
However, when it comes to fillet, the Hinds Head is another league. That hint of smokiness on the grilled beef, paired with the bearnaise sauce. Looks dead simple, solid cooking and is something I will remember.
My wife had the classic fish and chips—though it looked more like a prehistoric artefact than anything from a pub menu. Just perfection, including a spray bottle with vinegar. (The main picture.)
The Hinds Head had a great ambiance—warm, lively, and exactly the kind of setting you want for a proper pub meal elevated to something more.
It is the kind of place where the details add up quietly.
Vanilla Crème Brûlée. Someone was extra keen with the torch?
We ordered a bottle of Burn Cottage from New Zealand. The bottle was presented, and we asked for it to be decanted.
The waiter walked away with the bottle, out of sight. Five minutes or so later he returned, already poured into the carafe. Seriously?
And another thing that bothers us is filtered tap water poured into a carafe, followed by a hefty charge. Hand & Flowers served it in an old carafe which had seen better days. (And, no there was no other water to order.)
The price for this, £5.50 plus 12.5% service charge on top. Talk about a markup. And a taste that leaves much to wish for. And when it was last cleaned?
30 Day Dry Aged Fillet of Beef – Potato Buttermilk Waffle – Chive Butter – Sauce Bordelaise
And how could they miss the mark on the fillet—medium rare? One piece almost well done, the other rare. The Sauce Bordelaise was too sweet, missing that deep, savoury flavour, and did not match the meat.
The Pork & Mushroom Terrine with dill pickles was far too dense and compact.
Still, the sausage roll was delicious. The highlight. But then again, so was David Beckham’s favourite at The Cotswold Guide in Bicester Village.
The service was comme ci, comme ça. And if you insist on serving tap water, buy a new carafe at IKEA for a pound.
Most places deserve a second chance, but count us out on this one.
Heston Blumenthal’s The Hinds Head completely knocked down Tom Kerridge’s two Marlow restaurants.
And The Coach was better than The Hand & Flowers.
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