Restaurant Labyrinth is located on the second floor in Singapore’s Esplanade Mall. Entering the restaurant, we found ourselves in a small, dimly lit room with a long sofa against the wall, think less Michelin-starred fine dining, more doctor’s office chic.
Within minutes, the space filled up, and soon, we were about ten people deep in what felt like a very exclusive, confused group. Then, the signs started making sense. Everywhere we looked, Michelin plaques, Michelin figurines, a display for the beauty contest that is 50 Best and other prizes. If restaurants had resumes, this place had its CV pinned to the wall, laminated, and framed.
We laughed a little. This was bragging at an Olympic level. We remembered The Nut Tree in Murcott, England, where their Michelin star plaque was tucked away far in the restaurant above the fireplace, as if by accident. Meanwhile, here at Labyrinth, we were one step away from a Michelin mascot shaking our hands at the door.
Finally, a waiter emerged, calling out names like a doctor summoning patients. At this point, all that was missing was a receptionist and a stack of outdated magazines.
Kak Kut Teh – Pepper Trio – Tangerine Peel – Black Truffle
As we entered a rather dark restaurant, which they have received some critique for, for us the focus was on the food. Lights highlighted the tables, and here it felt right.
To continue the Michelin theme, a big black Michelin statue stood in the restaurant, like a Michelin Darth Vader.
Chef-owner LG Han uses local ingredients and flavours, drawing on childhood favourites to craft a unique dining experience that honours Singapore’s rich culinary heritage. For us, it was a journey through Singapore’s history, told one dish at a time.
We started out with two delicious snacks, Ramly Burger and Oyster Bao.
Ramly Burgers can be found at night markets in Singapore and late-night hawker stalls. These burgers are a cult favourite among Singaporeans looking for a greasy, satisfying midnight snack. Here, it was a refined small burger.
Satay Club – Iberian Pork – Chicken Tsukune
The Satay Club in Singapore was a renowned open-air hawker centre famous for its satay offerings. At the Satay Club, satay skewers was served fresh off the grill on round colourful tables, where the smoky aroma filled the air.
Back then, you could leave your phone and wallet on the table, and no one would steal it, a different time. And if you wanted to secure your table? A simple tissue packet did the trick, the unspoken rule of chope-ing that still lives on in Singapore’s hawker centres today.
Roti Boy- Coffee Bun – Seaweed Butter
Then came a bread serving: Roti Boy, a coffee bun with seaweed butter, and Wartime Rojak, inspired by recipes from Wartime Kitchen: Food and Eating in Singapore 1942-1950, a book by Wong Hong Suen exploring Singapore’s culinary landscape during and after the Japanese Occupation.
And it kept going, altogether 12 dishes—ending with a fun, almost Heston Blumenthal-inspired Cereal Prawn. What a way to end the meal.
Wartime Rojak – Beetroot 2 Ways – Sambal Tomate – Lettuce Granita
Char Kway Teow – South Africa Abalone – Fish Maw – Homemade Oyster Sauce
Cereal Prawn – Two ages of Shaoxing – Salted Egg Foam – Oatmeal Ice Cream
We truly enjoyed the chef’s journey he took us on. But maybe not the Char Kway Teow dish, We still have some issues with abalone, mostly that we wish it tasted like something else. But the Wartime Rojak was a delight. And the standout dish for us was the Kak Kut Teh consommé.
It was a bold, original, and challenging set menu that surprised, entertained, educated, and delivered. The restaurant’s dark interior is cut through with sharp lighting, all focusing on the dishes. The pace and the service run like clockwork.
Ending with a cup of thé.
End of December 2024
Dinner
Yes
Yes
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