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Sollerød Kro: A Michelin Star Misstep

Gold Don’t Guarantee Sparkle!

Michelin claims that Sollerød Kro holds a Michelin star, and their wine list is described as a tome of beauty. Well, we were more inclined to call it a greasy relic. Forty-three pages heavily focused on French wines, and all we could think was, “Where’s the hand sanitiser when you need it?”

Seriously, Michelin, when was your last visit?

From the snacks service

We opted for their Signature Menu of nine dishes, supposedly the golden ticket to holding a star. But even their website pictures, which didn’t match reality, screamed disappointment. We’ve seen this bait-and-switch before—hello, Spondi in Athens—dazzling photos of dishes that look nothing like what you’re served.

Despite only one visit, we firmly believe Sollerød Kro should have lost their Michelin star in the last round. Earning a star is hard, but losing one seems nearly impossible. They got theirs in 1987, and it’s high time Michelin reevaluates. Public trust is at stake here, and this isn’t the first one-star that has left us scratching our heads.

Squid – Green Asparagus – White Soy – Kombu – Brown Butter

What signals is the Michelin Guide sending? In real life, for example, in the school world, it is difficult to get top grades and even harder to maintain them. So, what was our experience like? First off: Good service can salvage bad food, but good food can’t save bad service. Here, both were in short supply.

The summer weather had us all seated in their quaint courtyard, a scene set for relaxation and romance. However, the service took a nosedive from the get-go.

Turbot – Ramsons – Escargot – Scallop.

Before we had sent the request, we do not eat snails. But still, there it was…

We waited a good ten minutes or more before a waiter casually asked if we wanted anything to drink. Champagne, perhaps? “No, I was asking if you want any water.” And that was it. We expected him to come back for aperitif orders, but nope. There we sat, menu-less and wondering for another 20 minutes. Normally, I’d be up and about, waving for some attention. But this was a birthday dinner, and I didn’t want to make it more awkward than it already was.

When two snacks suddenly arrived, (still no menu presented). I politely requested a glass of Champagne and Chablis. The waiter returned with two bottles, a bottle of Burgundy Aligoté and a Champagne ready to pour, without offering any choices unless you asked. And he was the sommelier. Aligoté? Chablis? Come on! Got the impression he just grabbed two bottles with a good markup for the restaurant, regardless of what the guest asked for.

Truffle- Potato- Vin Jaune – Comté.

With some gold sparkle on the jelly.

Meanwhile, we noticed other tables being treated to menus and aperitif offers immediately upon seating. We couldn’t shake off the feeling that we were being subtly marginalized because we were from Sweden.

Hopefully, that wasn’t the case, but the initial impression wasn’t great. Only after we ordered the Signature nine courses and some fine wines did the service improve to the level of your average pizza joint. The absence of structure and leadership in service was painfully obvious.

Food-wise, it was an orgy of golden ornaments on nearly every dish. Personally, I despise such pretentiousness and avoid ingesting gold. It doesn’t matter if you throw some gold at it when there is no flavor harmony in the dishes. The experience felt like a banquet dinner designed to dazzle visually while lacking in culinary substance. This was yet another instance of style over substance.

Golden ornament butterfly at the pond. Style over substance personified.

 

The cheese serving was a highlight, even though it was on the extras.

Conclusion

Sollerød Kro failed to live up to its Michelin star standard. Service, taste, and not the least, when the bill hits the table. For the first time, I am tempted to send the check to Michelin Head Office. It’s high time Michelin reevaluates their standards to maintain the trust of discerning diners.

Info

Visits

First time

Michelin

One-star

Service

Dinner

Seating

Outside in the courtyard

Wine List

See above text.

Highs & lows

The bottom line

Will we return?

No

Worth the money?​

No

Address