Located in central Copenhagen, Punk Royale is the Swedish restaurant concept that does almost everything a conventional dining room would avoid. Smoke machines, strobe lights and loud house music are all part of the evening.
During our visit, generous spoonfuls of Oscietra caviar arrived with vodka poured from a petrol can. Lobster and foie gras were followed by syringes filled with Sauternes, while herring was served in an ashtray beneath what looked like cigarette ash.
It sounds like theatre, and it is. The surprise was that the food remained the reason to be there. Beneath the noise and deliberately chaotic presentation was generous, confident cooking.
Punk Royale will not suit everyone. You need to surrender control and accept the pace, volume and absurdity. Those willing to do so may find a genuinely memorable dinner.
Copenhagen was exceptionally hot during our visit, and I eventually found myself standing beneath the only air-conditioning unit beside the kitchen. Joakim noticed that I was struggling and took me down to the small freezer room in the cellar to cool off. In a restaurant built around controlled chaos, that moment of genuine care said a great deal about the service.
More restaurants we have visited in Copenhagen: Copenhagen →
See every restaurant we have visited: The Restaurant List →
